Category Archives: Ensenada

Conchas y Vino Nuevo Fest 2017

Festival de Conchas y Vino Nuevo last Sunday, 23 April, at Hotel Coral brought out the best from talented local chefs and wineries.  Finally enjoyed Lechuza chardonnay first sips, yum.  I have only missed this party once(2016) in ten years.  It is usually in early April.  Here are some highlights of the day(click to enlarge):




Chef Ryan Steyn’s sushi oyster was the most bold and creative bite.  If you are not a fan of oysters and mussels(ostiones y mejiollenes), this fiesta is not for you.  Ok, you can go if you enjoy unlimited samplings of wine.  The event is always on a Sunday, noon -5PM.  Some food runs out around 3.

Speed Trap on Ensenada Death Stretch


For the numerous vehicular accidents registered in that area, municipal agents carried out a radar operation in the middle of the “stretch of death”(Tramo de Muerte) between the former ejido Chapultepec and the Maneadero delegation, Emilio Camarena Castillo reported.

The head of the Municipal Public Safety Directorate (DSPM), said that these actions aims to avoid traffic incidents, caused by drivers who circulate with speeding.

Municipal agents carried out preventive monitoring along the Transpeninsular highway, which has been previously implemented in different roads in the urban area, as part of the corporation’s permanent operations.

The radar surveillance carried out yesterday to the south of the city was supervised by the Transit commander, Jesus Luna Lezama. It should be noted that there are possibilities to be re-performed in that stretch, to inhibit future accidents.

These actions have the objective of avoiding traffic events, caused by drivers that circulate with excess speed


Scenic Road Landslides Possible

foto por Bajadock
Two years after various sectors were struggling to consolidate an alternate route, after a section of the Scenic Highway had slipped, they said there were “signs of sliding problems in the Salsipuedes area.”
They observed that the “reinforcement” works being carried out by Federal Roads and Bridges (Capufe) in this way, show that the risk of new landslides remains latent, as they are evident when passing through that place.
Mario Zepeda Jacobo, president of the Citizens Council, AC, said that although there are no official data, it is estimated that 2 billion pesos have already been invested and it seems that the final technical solution is not yet available.
“If we accumulate the 2.5 billion that SCT estimates of cost for a new highway of quota of approximately 24 kilometers to cover the stretch Bajamar Ensenada, that stretch will cost us 4.5 billion,” he said.
This will have to pay toll fees and increase in the costs of inputs and food.
However, he argued that there is at least one other option to resolve the stretch of failures and prevent damage similar to the collapse of the 2013-2014 quota road.
It is the construction of a section of road “feeder” that communicates both roads, the quota and the free Tijuana-Ensenada.


That is to say a “Route of emergency of 6.4 kilometers, with which avoid critical areas of the highway of quota in the zone of Salsipuedes and of the free highway in the zone of the Mission.
Zepeda Jacobo explained that the “Route of Emergence” joins both roads, the quota at the height of Bajamar with the Free Tijuana-Ensenada highway at kilometers 74, estimated cost is 65 million pesos, if two Lanes or 125 million four lanes.
Faced with the authorities’ lack of resources, Mario Zepeda considered that the SCT has a budget for maintenance of roads or the own ones that the State Government has for road works.
“From there resources can be applied to build this road, which will certainly provide certainty and connectivity to the region,” he said.
He recalled that more than two years ago, on September 22, 2014, the various chambers, business and social organizations of Ensenada made the request for the alternate route.“We joined and signed a document to demand the president of the republic, various officials of the SCT, Capufe the governor of the state and the municipal president, the immediate construction of an alternative route of emergency.”
He emphasized that the objective was to avoid further damage to citizens and the regional economy.
The quota road, he said, was repaired until December 2014, we were practically a year without having this important route of communication for Ensenada and the peninsula.
“It should not be forgotten that when the highway collapsed, traffic flowed to the free Tijuana-Ensenada highway, causing 14 deaths, hundreds of accidents and multi-million dollar losses to all productive activities in the Baja California peninsula,” he lamented .
Zepeda Jacobo considered that such a situation can not be repeated.
“The authorities must be sensitive to the needs of society and anticipate situations totally predictable and preventable, they can no longer plead ignorance, they already know it and, once again, we are remembering it,” he said.

Restaurante Tre Galline


Carpaccio, Brunello wine and a panoramic view of the valley begins this fun evening at Restaurante Tre Galline.



Saw this UFO, what is it?  Bread?


Parm cheese wheel. 


Tre Galline valley view


Details matter, when the chef honors your request to share a main course and provides the same detail on the split plate presentations as he would for the full order.  Corvina fish with a savory sauce and veggies.


Made my first visit to Tre Galline in Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe this week.  Made dinner reservation at +52 1 612 119 9718 and confirmed that this was the Tre Galline in the wine valley, not in Todos Santos.  I did not realize that I was speaking to Chef Angel until meeting him later that evening.

Tre Galline earns our cinque galline(5 hens out of 5) award for venue, scenery, service, food and value.  This is a fine example of rustic Baja dining.  Minimal decor and infrastructure yields to the flavors and panoramic views.  I gotta go back and get the pasta dancing in that cheese wheel bowl.


Tre Galline is located on the Porvenir road(parallels Hwy 3) at Vinos Montefiore.  Signs are good and they recently graded their dirt road leading to the restaurant from the paved road.

Photo from  Paolo Paoloni, owner of Villa Montefiori winery, and Angelo Dal Bon, Tre Galline.

Chef Angelo is from Salò Italy, on Lake Garda.  Everyone has stories of successes and failures  and sometimes the backstory opens up the motivation for success.  Chef Angelo gave us 5 minutes on his history, his city and the connection to Benito Mussolino.  Ok, my Spanish was only sufficient to pick up 25% of Angelo’s story.  So I did a bit of reading to understand more:


Wikipedia: From 1943 to 1945 Salò was the de facto capital (seat of government) of Benito Mussolini‘s Nazi-backed puppet state, the Italian Social Republic, also known as the Republic of Salò: Villa Castagna was the seat of the police headquarters, Villa Amedei was the head office of the Ministry of Popular Culture, Villa Simonini (nowadays Hotel Laurin) was the seat of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Stefani Agency, which distributed official press releases, was located in Via Brunati.

Following from interview in Journal del Pacifico, 2014:

Angelo Dal Bon is a third-generation chef. His grandmother opened their family restaurant in Northern Italy in 1950. His mother was the second chef in the family, and today his sisters run the restaurant. Angelo studied to be an accountant, but started working in the family restaurant after graduation. He has continued working as a chef to this day. Magda worked with Angelo and his sisters for 10 years, then went on to open her own very successful restaurant.

In 2004, Magda moved her restaurant to a magical location–a 16th century Italian villa on Lake Garda. On November 24th, after being open only 54 days, disaster struck. A 5.3 mb earthquake hit their town and the villa was split in two. It had to be demolished. When Magda recovered from the shock and heartache, she realized that the earthquake had opened a new door in their lives. She decided that they should start over and open a new restaurant in Baja California Sur, where they had enjoyed visiting since 1992.

Angelo and Magda packed up all their restaurant equipment and furniture, and shipped them to Mexico. After exploring several towns in Baja California Sur, they choose Todos Santos, and settled here in 2005. The doors to Tre Galline, their Italian restaurant, opened in February, 2006. They purchased Caffé Todos Santos in October of 2009. Angelo and Magda’s son, Constantio (named for Angelo’s grandmother), now lives in Todos Santos and works with them at both Caffé Todos Santos and Tre Galline.

This past summer(2014), Angelo opened Tre Galline del Vale Guadalupe at the Villa Monte Fiori vineyard, in the wine country outside of Ensenada in Baja California. It is located at km 9.8 on Carretera El Porvenir.

1989    Slow Food Movement Manefesto
2000    The James Beard Foundation

Agua Mala Cerveceria

Visited Agua Mala Cerveceria this warm and sunny Friday to get some cool refreshments for friends.

Entry is very industrial as I thought I might need a hard hat and steel toed boots.  The building is made from shipping containers.  But, the stairway to barley and hop heaven leads you to a unique bar that is Agua Mala Tasting Room.

The bar area combines a small bar counter surrounded by tables with an open air setting and view out to the Pacific from this perch.  Outdoor seating is available.  This is your perfect neighborhood bar to bring your buddies or meet new ones.

I have enjoyed Agua Mala beer previously at a few Ensenada restaurants including Deckman’s.  Today’s visit was a quickee with only a six pack sampler beer purchase.  Will need to dive into the food menu on my next visit.

Agua Mala Tasting Room opens 2pm-ish and I think they are closed Mondays.

Signs?  We don’t need no stinkin signs.  Just look for the shipping containers.  Location is Hwy 1 in El Sauzal(north Ensenada), approx 1/4 mile south of the 16 story Entremar condos and just north of Belio restaurant.

646 248 4638       Agua Mala Facebook

The American Pale Ale is my favorite…

Gasoline Price App


Bajadock: I downloaded this Gaso app to explore.  Fiddlesticks!  The radius is only 5K(3 miles) and I do not find a way to change locations for trip planning.  “No hay estaciones de servicio con tu parametros de busqueda” is what I get when I move my map to Ensenada centro.  WTF?  

Zenzzer is another app that is available, but, it is limited to the “fair pour” idea of reporting stations that give questionable liter measurement. 

Gas Buddy is the model to follow, but, not yet available in Mexico.

Consumers already have at their disposal the GasoApp application, which allows to locate the gas station that is allowed by the Energy Regulatory Commission (CRE) that offers the best prices, as well as those that have been verified by Profeco, Julio Felipe García Muñoz reported. 

The delegate of Profeco in Baja California explained that the users will be able to consult which are the gas stations that commit irregularities and their recidivism; Also denounce, through photographs, irregularities of the collection that was made, of the pump and the cost of gasoline at that time. This application, he said, is available for iOS and Android.

During the Ensenada Forum, the federal official explained that the application will show the options that are located within a radius of 5 kilometers.

Regarding costs, he recalled that with the release of the price of gasoline, Ensenada and Tijuana are of the cities with greater presence of the Profeco, to maintain actions of verification of the price of the fuel and that is in sight of the consumer.

He said that in Tijuana 600 gas stations have been registered and, as a result of the revisions, sanctions have been applied, such as suspension and seals on some of the pumps.

He observed that if the pumps are covered with black plastic, it is because the employers try to cover the sealing seals installed by Profeco.

La Cevicheria Oyster Bar


Continued my Friday Food Frolick trend at La Cevicheria, battling the Semana Santa traffic in Ensenada.  OK, per Surfer Dude’s counsel, road crowds ain’t nearly as bad as in Orange County or L.A.

I was pleasantly surprised by the ample outdoor seating at La Cevicheria.  This Friday saw a good crowd with only 2 or 3 tables available at 5:30PM.  There are approx 6 seats at the bar and I’m always comfy in a bar stool.  This spot feels like your little neighborhood bistro.

The interior at La Cevicheria is a small space with room for approx 36.  Exterior seats maybe 24?

La Cevicheria has the usual bottled beer subjects plus a few craft brew selections like Wendlandt and Lagunita IPA.  Bohemia Clara was my choice.  Meet and greet was friendly and the menu was in my hands pronto.  Wine, mixed drinks, tequila and mezcal are also served here.

My bartender made a few suggestions and asked “How hungry are you?”.  Started with the Tuna Al Pastor taco due to the creative combo name.  Yep, that’s pineapple, and although hidden by the mild red salsa, there were plentiul meaty chunks of tuna in this fun taco.  Food trivia nuts: Tacos al Pastor are called Tacos Adobada in Baja.

You also are served a salsa flight at La Cevicheria.  Left to right in photo above is habanero to chipotle,  tongue torch to mild.

Bohemia #2 was accompanied by 6 fresh oysters.  I hate to admit that I’m a whimp on hot salsas.  A little heat is good, but, too much overwhelms the flavors.  I had to try a couple of drops of the habanero on one of these “snots on a shell” and it brought me to tears.  Stayed within the salsa verde and chipotle zone for the rest of my visit.

When I see “house special” or “de la casa” in the menu, my frolick nerves jump at the chance.  But, I was on Bohemia course #3 and was semi-full of seafood and suds already.  OK, I ordered the half portion of Ceviche de la Casa.  Yes, above photo is the HALF portion on a full dinner plate.  I asked for verification that I was not served a full portion.  Yowzers, a full portion could feed 4 people.  This Montaña de Mariscos had clams, octopus, fish and shrimpies. 

I did not want to expand into a new belt size this early on a Friday, so requested “para llevar” and my server gladly took away the dish to put into a container, with the tostadas packaged separately, thanks.

On taking home your saved dinner at a restaurant, do you prefer DIY scooping at the table into your container, or would you rather have a server handle it back in the kitchen?

La Cevicheria is a perfect spot for a sip and nibble, sharing tapas with friends or a full seafood orgy session.  The one page menu(Gracias Dios!) is easy to navigate and gets my coveted 6th star award, because all menu items are less than $10USD.

La Cevichera is located inside Villa Mexicana, a shopping mall, on the inland side of Lopez Matoes(1st street), or seaward side of Calle Segunda.  Easiest way to find it is entry from Alvarado.

FYI for Ensenada visitors, Alvarado runs into the water at the Big Flagpole and Riveroll runs into the 3 Heads Park.

All of my posts are plotted by our team of cartographers on the Ensenada Interactive Map(includes Valle de Guadalupe wineries/restaurants).

Parking is best for La Cevicheria if you just move just inland from Calle Segunda(2nd), you will find a spot with patience and willingness to hike 2 or 3 blocks to your target restaurant in ‘Nada Centro.  Circling endlessly on weekends around Costero, 1st and 2nd will cause dizziness and loss of appetite.

La Cevicheria gets our coveted 6 oyster award(out of 5 possible).  Will be bringing friends back to this fun spot soon.  Ooops, and I was the only gringo in the house(OGITH)!

La Cevicheria Facebook

Ensenada Drone Video

por Lautaro Angelico

Air travel is the only recommended method during Semana Santa/Holy Week around Ensenada.  Geewillickers, there are loads of people, tons of traffic, accidents, sirens, potholes, police checkpoints and chaos yesterday/Friday.

One accident was a pickup truck rear ending a semi trailer.  The little truck got entwined with the mangled rear bumper of the big truck at the UABC ped overpass on south Reforma late Friday afternoon.

I did find a spot in Centro ‘Nada that was not packed for a new gastronomic adventure and will post tomorrow/Sunday.

Scenic Road Status Report

foto por El Vigia

Highlight of my trip south from San Diego to Ensenada was the front end loader staring me down on the highway at K95 of Salsipuedes as I drove around a quick curve.  Went from 60mph to stop in a hurry and checked rear mirror to hope followers’ brakes were working well.  That machine was packing down new blacktop.  Two flag dudes plus two more supervisors were “What, me worry?”.  Yep,  cows, horses, no tail lights at night and front end loaders are all part of your encounters on the superhighway on the coast.  Had to do a diaper check.

Geezo the K 94-95 area is getting bumpy again.  How are those geologic studies going on the fault zone?

More TJ-Ens highlights:

The large pot hole at El Chaparral/TJ crossing is still prominent,  just before bridge across the Rio, right lane.

Hwy 1 toll booth traffic was backed up to approx 20 car line, likely due to entrococcus scientists doing field work on the beaches.

Wonder when the new toll booth will open on Hwy 1 at Popotla?

Gasoline is 16.82 per liter in Ensenada.  Now the gas rate and exchange rate are about equal.  Approx $3.75usd/gallon.  Paid $2.78 Tuesday in San Diego.

La Mision beach was packed.  Apparently the enterococcus crisis has not hit that beach or the contamination is simply not being monitored there.

Adjusted my reconnection to Hwy 1 on south end of Ensenada.  I’m done with the moon craters on Estancia and now enjoying the smooth pavement 1/2 mile south on Las Palmas at end of beach to jog inland back to hwy 1.  FYI, Palmas is the southern edge of Smart & Final store on hwy 1.

White markings are on pot holes on Tramo de Muerte(Hwy 1 on south end of Ensenada toward Maneadero).  Are these signs of alien invaders or is there a plan to smooth up that hot mess of pavement this year?

sobrio= sober        ebrio = drunk

Reading local(Ensenada/Tijuana) newspapers is my morning coffee pleasure.  There is always at least one article about a new financial outlay for infrastructure and at least one article on past infrastructure money losses/corruption every day.  Shoveling is not so frequent on infrastructure, but is very prevalent on the money losses.

Punta Banda Horseshit and Gastronomy

foto por Bajadock

Bajadock: Wowzeritos Punta Banditos!  A Gastronomic Corridor is shovel ready for the neighborhood, as soon as the horseshit is mitigated.

The peninsular and Estero area of ​​Punta Banda registers contamination of canyons, streams and beaches by garbage, discharges to the sea of ​​commercial and restaurant waste water, as well as horse excrement in the sand, so that civil authorities and associations will attend to the problem.

During a meeting in which representatives of the three orders of government participated, it was determined that a series of actions and plans will be undertaken.

They pointed out the risks to the physical integrity of people by traffic of motorcycles and horses by the beach, as well as the increase of population of dogs, cats and wild animals killed in the beach, besides cloud of agrochemicals in inhabited zones, originated by spreading pesticides In agricultural areas with aircraft.

The meeting was held on April 7, where the Community Environmental Monitoring Committee of Estero de Punta Banda, with the support of Pro Esteros, AC and the authorities, emphasized the attributions of the different departments competent in environmental matters.

Gabriel Camacho Jiménez, from the coordination of Community Strengthening Pro Esteros, AC, stressed that in the meeting, citizens and officials, a series of cooperation actions were determined.

Cooperation actions
It was agreed to follow up, is the construction and operation of a collection center, separation and transfer of domestic waste.
For this, the Environmental Monitoring Committee of Estero of Punta Banda already has economic resources for the construction of the first stage of the project and the ejido Esteban Cantú would be lending a land.
Gabriel Camacho explained that environmental surveillance tours and operations will be carried out jointly with various environmental authorities, talks will be held at local schools and there will be brigades to clean beaches and streets.
Likewise, work will be done on the formation of a local lifeguard group, as well as delimiting horseback riding to a trail or route, in conjunction with the service providers.
He emphasized that development will be planned in the area to generate economic benefits, conserving landscapes and natural resources, which endow the area with a high potential for the development of the ecotourism sector.
Two projects were designed to be compatible with the Punta Banda Estero Ramsar Site, which are a high-performance sports center and gastronomic corridor.

The meeting was attended by Oswaldo Santillán, delegate of the Profepa; Érika Jiménez, representing the Sub-Directorate of Municipal Ecology; José M. Sánchez de la Parra, on behalf of the Secretariat for Environmental Protection of the State (SPA).
In addition to the César Agustín Martínez, municipal delegate of Maneadero; Officer Rodolfo Amador, commander of Public Security of the delegation of Maneadero; Saúl Sandoval, president of Ejido Commissariat of Ejido Esteban Cantú.

Damage and pollution:
Contamination of creeping streams and beaches by garbage
Burning trash
Discharge of sewage from shops and restaurants to the sea
Horse excrement on beaches
Transit of motorcycles and horses by the beach
Population increase of dogs and cats
Dead animals on the beach
Cloud of agrochemicals in inhabited areas scattered in agricultural areas with aircraft

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